Back in late November, I was sitting cross-legged on the living room floor with some members of my extended family stuffing over 1000 envelops with invitations to a party that my host grandmother would be throwing in mid January. At that time it seemed like a long way off. But then it happened. Two weekends ago. On numerous occasions I asked numerous family members (and my Khmer tutor) what the party was for - a birthday, a holiday, a death anniversary, etc. - to which the answer was: she, my host grandmother aged 67 - has the money and just felt like it. So there you have it, a party for the sake of a party (of course there were monks that came to bless everyone and everything, but really a party). Full of eating and dancing.
So me and 1000 Khmer people? No, I decided to bring in back-up and invited (after asking my grandmother) my friend to stay for the 2-day celebration. Oh yeah I forgot to mention it wasn't just a one day, 5 hour type thing. Try 2 straight days! There was no RSVPing and no official guest list - although there is a gift lift since at the door/gate/front of the tent that was set up in the driveway everyone had to give some money - so I can't say exactly how many people showed up, but my friend and I estimate that over the course of weekend about 300 - 400 people came and went. Loud music at all hours, Khmer dancing circles, and plenty of rice sums up the event - and man was it a blast! Here are some photos:
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family, neighbors and friends helping with food prep - it really was the work of a community. |
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MEAT! |
video of dancing outside the police station, across the street from my house - my host dad was the MC.
I titled this post Party Season because that is just the tip of the iceberg (by the way "cold" season ended after 2 1/2 weeks... and we are back to sweating profusely). The next day I went to the ceremony for the opening of the new library at the high school. After the ceremony was lunch and dancing and school was cancelled and all the male teachers started drinking (a lot). The following day I attended the "hair cutting ceremony" and the party for my neighbor's niece's wedding. Weddings are 2-day events so of course I got up the next morning - despite having not slept well because of the pounding bass until 2am and then back on at 4am - to walk in the wedding processional and then went back for the reception later that day. Most people change clothes for each ceremony, which is a great excuse to leave and come back after a nap, but alas I only have one fancy wedding outfit.
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the library ceremony |
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the new library |
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my host sister did my make-up and hair - so not quite a wardrobe change but close |
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the hair cutting ceremony - my host parents performing the fake hair cutting ritual for the bride and groom |
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the wedding party ready to process the 200m followed by guests carrying plates of fruit |
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the wedding ceremony itself is MC'd by a group of performers who regularly embarrass the wedding party and guests |
After all of this partying, I was looking forward to celebrating my 23rd birthday when my good friend from middle school and high school, Jen over the weekend in Siem Reap. Unfortunately, I got a bad case of amoebic dysentery (yes many people on the Oregon Trail died from that... glad I was in 2013 Cambodia!) and Jen spent the weekend taking care of me instead of partaking in Party Season. I am at 100 percent now and looking to soldier onward with the many more parties to come (wedding season after all goes from November to April I have been told).
Wow--that's a lot of activity! Sounds like fun. I'm sorry you got sick, but glad you are feeling better now. Love reading your posts!
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