Thursday, April 18, 2013

Travels & Tribulations


Su-sa-die Chnaam Thmei! Happy Khmer New Year! After three days of official holiday it is now year 2557 according to the Buddhist calendar. And like all great new year traditions, I was able to celebrate the close of a great year and the beginning of another in the best of ways: surrounded by friends and family - a group of people whom I knew nothing about exactly 9 months ago.

As my community began to wind down as the new year approached - school closing for the holiday, college kids back at home, businesses with irregular (even more so than usual) hours, etc. - I took off on a vacation to Thailand with my friends Sam, Miriam, and Pete. The trip was marked by a lot of great moments and altogether flew day. We crossed the border in Poipet smoothly despite warnings that it would be a royal pain in the butt and arrived in Bangkok to be visually accosted by the sights and sounds of a bustling city. So many multi-colored taxis, a subway, an air train, water taxis - the public transportation possibilities alone were new and exciting. We spent a few days riding as many of these different vehicles as possible exploring the city and the astounding temple complexes that it boasts - The Royal Palace with the emerald Buddha, Wat Pho with the 15x46m reclining Buddha, Wat Arun with its intricate stonework - while eating plenty of pad thai and thai milk tea at street vendors along the way. 

view of the Royal Palace from the outside
Other excursions included an all day bike tour of the city winding through a lush jungle-like conservation area and in and out of traffic. 

Miriam, me, Pete, and Sam
Taking the train to Chiang Mai (northern Thailand) I fought a little bit of a battle with my stomach, but that didn’t stop me from going to an elephant farm to play with elephants.

3 idiots on an elephant (named Tukea)
From Chiang Mai bused up to the sleepy city of Pai, made famous by the Thai film Pai in Love. A city snug in the mountains with a lot of day trip options like traveling by bamboo raft through the Lod Caves, splashing around in a waterfall, soaking in the natural Thai Pai hot springs, and watching the sunset from the Pai Canyon, all of which we crammed into one long day. 

the "resort" bungalows we stayed in
Then came the epic journey back to Cambodia…

Arrived back at site and spent a few relaxed days before traveling down to Takeo province (a total of a 8 hour trip south) to visit my host family from training for the new year. I spent a lot of my visit angkwelane-ing (hanging out), eating guo diyo (a noodle and beef soup) and nom baan chowk (noodles with curry and veggies) and ripe, ripe mango from the trees around the yard. I met and re-met neighbors and extended family and gave offerings at the local wat (Ta Phen) led by my yeay (grandmother). We laing bier-d (played cards) and a boci-like game with round stones that you hit on the losers’ knee or shoulder. 

a family meal
But what I really got out of Khmer New Year was the importance of family. It reminded me of the holidays back home - despite the sweltering heat. So as we move into year 2557 I celebrate the old friends and family whose love and support keep me going on the toughest of days and the new friends and family whose love and support make this journey even more worthwhile.  

Thursday, April 11, 2013

Marching Forward

After quite a hiatus from blogging, I am back! It feels like just the other day that I posted and at the same time a very long time ago. I have found that this disorienting conception of time is quite common for me here in this land where the subtle seasonal changes that mark the passage of time are often difficult to see. A lot has happened since my last post, but instead of cramming it all into one long word vomit, I will be posting a few more times in the coming week as more things come and go. So let's rewind to mid-March...

I headed down to Phnom Penh mid-March to attend the first meeting of the PC/Cambodia Gender and Development (GAD) committee. This kick-off meeting got all 6 members excited about our upcoming work with the PC family and our host country partners - projects focused on gender issues. We set up our mission statement and goals and created a blog to get word out about the work we will be doing in the future: http://pckhmerwidgad.blogspot.com/ Check it out to find out more!

My friend Katie approached me in December about joining with her to work on a Domestic Violence Training of Trainers (ToT) workshop. Although I offered my support, at that time it was not feasible for me because of a lack of established community support or buy-in at my site (however since then there has been expressed interest to do something similar in the future). Katie, and her husband Tim, generously offered to host me so that I could observe the training and the behind the scenes work. The 5-day workshop kicked-off after International Women's Day and was facilitated by Khmer NGO staff while Katie made sure everything went smoothly. It was great to see the project in motion and all of the hard work that Katie put in to make it happen. Although I was unable to observe the community outreach sessions that the participants led (and will be leading) post-workshop, I was lucky to be there to witness as much of this project as I did. Below are some photo from the workshop:
woman from the District Office of Women's Affairs speaking about domestic violence
Katie working behind the scenes
facilitator from World Vision Cambodia engaging participants

More on my adventures in Thailand and Khmer New Year later...