Facilitation and Meet-Ups

I seem to be bouncing between trainings recently. After MST, I had a quick break before I participated in a Training of Facilitators (ToF) in Siem Reap lead by an INGO that works in my community. In my area, the INGO is currently going through extensive personnel changes and now have to implement a year-long project that is being rolled out in 2 districts in 4 different countries around the world (top-down?). The pilot program focuses on maternal, neonatal, and infant health in an attempt to assess the INGO's effectiveness at creating positive change in the communities in which they work. The staff in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh have asked me to help out with the project that includes health technical training for the Village Health Support Group (VHSG) and Time and Targeted Counseling (TTC) for pregnant women and their families through the first year post delivery. 

Barriers on the Road to Behavior Change

The PC health framework aligns almost perfectly with this project and I have been trying to work with this INGO for a while, so it is nice to finally team up. And yet I have a lot of issues with this pilot - and so do the Ministry of Health people at the provincial and district levels. The theory is there, the execution and acceptability at the local level are questionable. And here in essence lies one of the hardest parts of international development and aid. As I mentioned in my last post, as a Peace Corps Volunteer I am able to occupy a space and play a role in community development that is quite unique. As such, I aim to be a connector, a resource, and help bridge that gap between theory and application. I am interested to see how this project pans out (for better or for worse) and to learn from this experience. 

After the ToF ended I met up with the new group of K6-K7 Siem Reap volunteers for a weekend of exploring, bonding, good food and conversation. All but one volunteer made it in. Here are some photos for the activities we ended up doing. 

the wonderful K7s! Joel, Rachel, Jeff, and Emily

K6 sandwich! Rachel (K7), Pete (K6), Me (K6), and Joel (K7)

fish massage!

Angkor Wat mini golf!

Most of the Siem Reapers :)

Constitutional Current and Street Swimming

This past week marked the 20th anniversary of Cambodia's Constitution. In 1993 the newly elected National Assembly was convened and UNTAC (the UN Task Force) started to pull out of the country. Fast forward to 2013 and last Monday when the new members of the elected government were sworn into the National Assembly... well 68 of them. Where were the remaining 55 members you ask? They were hanging out at Angkor Wat (about 340km north of the capital) in protest. The opposition party has made it clear time and time again, despite negotiations that seem to reach an understanding of the election results, that the July 28th elections were not free nor fair. The majority of the international community and human rights groups in Cambodia seem to side with this view although there has been some impatience to hurry up and work together already. (Conversely, China has publicly endorsed the official results issued by the ruling party.) So the National Assembly convened on Monday without the members of the CNRP who had won seats. Since then the leaders have agreed to resume negotiations (http://www.phnompenhpost.com/national/cnrp-ready-talk), all the while encouraging demonstrations and protests from their supporters (http://www.cambodiadaily.com/elections/cpp-victory-ratified-cnrp-promises-more-protests-41898/). It is a vast oversimplification to say that as a result (cause and effect) there have been clashes with police, peaceful demonstrations and hunger strikes that have turned violent. But this has happened. And all of this in more urban areas where a variety of media sources and public opinions are more accessible. The news that is available to the rural populations is regulated by the government and limited. In my community there is a overwhelming majority of people who tell me that the CPP won. End of story. I have asked people what they think of the protests and demonstrations, the violence and the negotiations and I often come across a lot of confused looks. From my experience there is generally a gross unawareness of what is going on once you are removed from the capital and major city centers.

I do not know what will happen and when the two-party government will actually come together as exactly that - a two-party government. In the meantime there are seats that need warming. If the opposition does not warm them, it is unclear who will claim them.

While the urban areas are concerned with government leadership, the provinces are dealing with an uncertain situation as well: flooding. A generally mild rainy season has taken a sharp turn to severely swamped. Flooding has reached epic proportions in watersheds across the country and every time I check the death toll seems to rise (http://www.phnompenhpost.com/national/floods-could-surpass-%E2%80%9996-levels). Because Cambodia is primarily an agrarian society, these drastic change in weather have had some damaging effects on livelihoods.

Recently, I attended a training lead by a mixed team of host country nationals and foreigners (more on that later...). I got to talking with one of the foreigners and he asked whether I liked dry or wet season better. Having been born and raised in the greater Seattle area, I have a great appreciation for rain and its beauty. As I see the negative effects that the rainy season has on the less fortunate, I have come to realize how privileged I am to be able to say that I like wet season better; as I have the option to be removed from the elements if I so chose. I went for a long run in Siem Reap during a drizzle yesterday and got out past the city limits a bit and made the mistake of turning down a flooded street. I quickly found myself in water up to my knees. Along with others on bikes, motos, and in cars I waded through contaminated water comforted by the fact that I had clean drinking and bathing water to go back to when I returned to the guesthouse. I was able to laugh at myself and to joke with people gawking at me, the barang, very nearly swimming past their front doors.

swimming anyone? a flooded street in Siem Reap

Despite being a volunteer, I am comfortably living on a volunteer stipend that allows for me to come and go between what often feel like separate, disconnected or maybe even dissonant worlds. One in which flooding is a thing that is understood objectively or in theory, as an observer, and one in which the reality of the flooding has everyday implications. I met someone in the foreign service recently who addressed this concept by saying that "Peace Corps Volunteers are lucky to be in the field and to be working and living in that liminal space." While most days I feel extremely lucky, I also struggle to bridge and process those multiple worlds.

Look out for a less meta post on our first K6-K7 provincial meet up paired with more musings on different approaches to international development...

Mid-Service Musings

Writing has always been an outlet of sorts for me. A way to process, a therapy, a form of expression. I journal A LOT. My family sent me a new journal for Christmas (which arrived in mid January thanks to the delays of the international postal system) because I had filled up the one that I had brought to Cambodia within the first 4 months. This one is special because it has a page for each day, with a big heading at the top. Unfortunately (or fortunately) I am a bit compulsive which translates in this situation to having the need to fill every page and thus the compulsion to write and document everyday. When I first got the journal I was already behind and I had to think hard to back track and remember. When I returned to site after having battled Dengue in July I had to fill in the gaps despite having done little during those 2 weeks in bed. And now? I am a month behind. Why? Because of so many things and none of which have to do with a lack of time nor emotions nor excitement. Instead, I have started documenting the memories and moments in different ways - like at least a photo-a-day, emails to loved ones, phone calls to fellow PCVs, etc. But most importantly my need for an outlet for processing emotions alone is seemingly less essential to my happiness here. I feel centered and able and willing to question issues I see and difficulties I encounter with the people around me - not only with other PCVs and staff, but with my host family, and people in my community. My relationships are developing further and my conversations have deepen. I feel connected and supported. I have hit what our Country Director describes as the sweetspot (my Khmer translation kon layng p'ime).

And just about when everyone told me I would. It is now past the 1-year mark. I arrived at my site on September 10, 2012. I have less than a year until my Close of Service (COS). There is still a lot to learn and do before I will be prepared to leave my new home behind (if you can every really leave something like that "behind"). One way that Peace Corps marks points of service is with trainings. Last week I found myself traveling down to Phnom Penh unsure of what was going to really be in store for our mid-service training (MST).

The barbwire police barricade removed Tuesday near the office.

The 50 remaining volunteers in my cohort (K6) - we started out with 58 - converged on a nice hotel last Sunday and had a packed 3 1/2 day schedule of professional development held at the Peace Corps office. Actually the first day was held at the hotel because of protests (remember all those posts about the elections?) from the opposition party, the CNRP, throughout the city. That is a whole nother post...

Incredible panel talking about diversity in Cambodia

So what happened during MST? We had sessions on administrative procedures, Khmer history and Post-conflict legacies, diversity in Cambodia, safety and security, engaging counterparts, resources of students, technical language, activities for the classroom, health curricula, democracy and governance in Cambodia, core expectations, motivations of service, secondary projects, foreign service and post PC opportunities, and grant writing.

Motivations of Service with our DPT, Alissa

A tough session with our fearless PCVL, Sean

language lessons with our LCC, Borin

Foreign Service and other post-PC opportunities led by our DMO, Erin

Small group lunch with our PM, An Thy

There were opportunities to meet individually and in small groups with staff members and an open space for sharing successes and challenges. And to top it all off we had a boat cruise on the Mekong with the staff. I got to meet new faces and reconnect with "old" friends (did I really just meet them last year???).

Hanging out in the lounge between sessions

We each brought something unique to the MST; new perspectives and experiences. I was reminded that I am lucky to be in the field; that it is not about putting up big numbers, but about the dignity of people and the process; to give all of myself - everything that I can at this point in time; and that everyone has a story.



I know that this next year is going to fly by. MST seemed like something in the future and now it is a thing of the past. I understand why Peace Corps service is a 2 year commitment, because a year just isn't enough. I am so grateful for the time that I have had here thus far and firmly believe that this next year will bring with it so much more than I can even anticipate.

Getting by with a little help from my friend, Kelly

New Kids On The Block

Last weekend forty-six more people joined the ranks of the PCVs in Cambodia. A prestigious club for sure. I was not in attendance for their swear-in, but the ceremony was televised and broadcast across the country.

One of the reasons I did not head to PP for the ceremony was because of political demonstrations/rallies  by the opposition party, CNRP. That weekend the National Election Committee announced that the official election results were the exact same as the original preliminary count on July 28th. This was not what the opposition nor the NGOs claiming that the election was not free and fair, wanted to hear. As a result a string of events have followed - meetings with the King and party leaders, a small explosion near the National Assembly, tear gas and riot police for the 20,000 strong demonstration, and currently a 3-day planned protest that has already seen conflict arise. The National Assembly is supposed to reconvene on Sept. 23rd. We shall see what actually happens.

Back to talking about the K7s (new PCVs)... I HAVE A SITE-MATE! Her name is Emily and she is a English Teacher (ETTT). This past week I have spent some time getting to know her and showing her around, although she would be a superstar without me. She is living a block or so down the road at the head midwife's house. Although school doesn't really start until after Pchum Ben (Khmer festival in early October), Emily has already dived right in and started tutoring people around the community in English. I am excited to be sharing my community with her and collaborating on projects with her in the future.

site-mate goofing-around session :)

In addition to Emily, new-comers Joel (CHE), Rachel (ETTT), and Jeff (ETTT) are now officially Siem Reapers. I have visited Joel and Rachel who live about an hour bike ride in opposite directions from me and I hope to make my way to Jeff soon. Here is a photo from my visit to Joel's. 

Joel with his home decorating (courtesy of host family)

And now I am in PP (despite the protests) for our mid-service training. I biked from site to Siem Reap - a muddy and wet adventure! - and then bused down to PP. Four days of MST here we come!

monsoon season doesn't stop me from biking all over.

THE BIG KIDS ON THE BLOCK

No I am not referring to the middle school boys that strut along Road 6 (the “highway” in front of my house). And I am not at all referring to the size of the people around me (as a general stereotype Khmer people a short and skinny, while this is changing as diets and lifestyles change and I do see bigger men and women and chubby infants, the stereotype is reinforced in my mind every time I am “reminded” by people in my community that I am fatter and bigger than they are…). Instead I am talking about how today marks the last Close of Service (COS) date for the group (K5s) ahead of me. As the K6s we are now the ones who have been here a year and have the experiences and knowledge that make us on top of the PCV food chain. We are the Seniors in a sense. Our country director, Penny, likes to say that we have hit the point in service (the one-year mark) when we are “arrogantly ignorant.” We think we know everything and yet simultaneously we are aware that we know next to nothing.

In June I said “see you later” to Jen. In July I watched as the first set of K5s COS’d, and two of my wonderful province-mates Tim and Katie move onto bigger and better things. Tim headed Stateside to get ready for his grad program in social work and Katie headed south to be the K7s PST tech trainer for the CHE program. This power couple on numerous occasions offered up their home to me, most notably for Christmas and for Katie’s Domestic Violence awareness training of trainers (ToT) workshop in March. Additionally they gave sound advice, suggestions, and support at the drop of a hat. Working with Katie on Camp GLOW was one of my highlights of service thus far. See her really stellar most recent post http://timkatstravels.wordpress.com/2013/09/02/tangled/ on the difficulty/near impossibility of summing up 2 years of service.

Katie & Tim (center)

Tim & Katie around their site

In August another province-mate and fellow Camp GLOW coordinator Mr. Blair hopped on a plan. Leaving the last of the K5s in Siem Reap to fend for herself.

Blair (left) riding the truck with Neysa and me.

Last week I got to say “so long” (I hate “byes”) to one of the most influential people I have ever met. I was truly blessed to have such a solid person and friend living only 25K down the road this past year. Granted I didn’t really realize all that Neysa offered me until the last few weeks and so I crammed as much Neysa-time as I could into the last month. Neysa is headed home to pursue a masters in non-profit management, something she clearly has a knack for. I was able to watch Neysa in her element at moments throughout this past year - working on workshops and projects, meeting with people in her community and the province, interacting with people who just thought the world of her, etc. - and I always came away from those experiences wanted to do more, and channeling that positive energy and her enthusiastic outlook on life. Neysa encouraged me to be more organized (and for those who know me - I was already pretty organized right?) and tackle new tasks and projects. She was unreasonably generous; inviting me to taco lunches at her site and most recently the going away party that her health center and host family threw for her with all the elements of a Khmer celebration - roasted pig, cases of beer, Karaoke, and dancing around a table. I was able to see her mastery of budgets working together on Camp GLOW and I helped her check off an item or two off of her Cambodia bucket list - including riding a buffalo at my site.

Neysa meeting baby Neysa. 

At Neysa's going-away partay. 

So as the K5s trickle down to Phnom Penh and fly off to meet their futures, I want to thank them all (especially Tim, Katie, Blair, and Neysa) for supporting and encouraging me, setting an example and being great role models, and more importantly being great friends. I hope that I can now take on the role of the big kid on the block and be what the K5s were for me, for the K7s.